“Light colors are used to highlight. So they go under the brow bone and corner of the eye,” Leary says. “The medium shade is used to blend the colors together and map out the shape you want. Then the darkest colors are used for depth, in the crease and around the lash lines,” Leary suggests. When determining which shape you’d like to create with your shadow, remember light is drawn to lighter pigments, and darker colors will add drama and dimension. If you’d like to alter the appearance of close-set eyes, draw attention to the outer half of your lid with darker shadow. For deep-set eyes, try blending your medium color on the majority of your lid, leaving your darkest hue to only the outer creases. This will draw more light to your lid and open up your eyes.